Last week I was fortunate enough to accompany Andy and his
classmates on another tiyul
(trip). This time, we went to Ir David (City of David), a large
archeological park that researchers believe to be the location of King David’s
palace, and the ancient Jerusalem referred to in the Bible. This site is also the location of
Hezikayah’s Tunnel—the attraction that allows tourists to walk through a tiny
ancient underground tunnel in complete darkness, in water up to their
waists. It shouldn’t come as a
surprise to any of you that when I was offered the opportunity to participate
in this insanity during my Pilgrimage trip when I was 16, I faked sick and
opted out. Luckily, on the tiyul with Andy’s class, we took the dry
route out of the tunnel.
We spent a lot of time exploring the ruins, and learning
about what ancient life might have been like. Our tour guide had brought with him passages from the Tanach (Hebrew Bible) which mention the
very location where we were standing.
I’m sure for the people who understood the passages and knew what they
were looking at, it was pretty cool.
But I’m not a rabbinical student, and although I thought the old stuff
was pretty cool, ever since I went to Rome, I’m just slightly less impressed. I was more interested in the politics
around the location, and the juxtaposition of the old and the new. Me, interested in politics? I know, weird.
Since people believe that this is where ancient Jerusalem
stood, many Jews try to settle in the area. It really is a tourist site right underneath a residential
area. One of the hardships with
that, however, is the fact that the site is located in a bustling East
Jerusalem town that is home to Arab families. Our tour guide explained that the two religions live in
peace, and in tension. I think
that pretty much makes sense for any city in Israel. The site itself is privately run by an organization known
for shady practices aimed at buying the Arabs out, and putting the Jews back
in.
While at Ir David,
we walked through many underground tunnels, and squeezed through narrow
pathways. When we finally
resurfaced, I had forgotten what daylight looked like. We had gathered in an area, waiting for
the rest of our group to catch up, and giving everyone a chance to catch their
breaths, when we heard (and saw) a few gun shots fired from the nearby
town. We all looked
around at each other, wondering what was going on, and I’m sure my face
betrayed my fear. After all, we
were a group of Jews walking around a political hotbed in East Jerusalem. A number of students, more culturally
versed than I am, explained that it is a tradition in some Arab families to
fire rifles into the air in celebration of a wedding. Suddenly, the gun shots weren’t scary so much as they were
joyous. It’s sort of amazing the way
we assign meaning to different actions.
Throughout this discussion, however, our tour guide remained silent,
even though I felt that he might have been able to elaborate a little more.
A few meters up the hill (yes, I measure things in meters
now), we stopped to discuss an inscription taken out of the tunnel and
displayed on a wall outside. About
halfway into the tour guide’s explanation, the village just behind us began to
echo with the Muslim call to prayer.
There must have been at least 5 different calls sounding, each with
their own unique tune and voice.
The results were astounding—each of the calls to prayer echoing each
other and filling the valley with a very public display of faith and religiosity. It was the type of thing that a bunch
of rabbinical students could surely find interesting. It’s the type of thing I would love to have listened to for
the duration of the 5 or 10 minutes that it lasted. At the very least, a moment of silence would have been
appropriate out of respect for another’s faith.
But our tour guide kept talking—right through the call to
prayer—and kept talking even after it was finished. He never addressed it, but instead acted like nothing had
happened. Maybe it was a political
statement (I’m coming to realize that everything is a political statement in
this country whether you intend it to be or not). But the truth is, no one benefited from his ignoring of a
beautiful ritual of another religion.
I, for one, am not ashamed to admit that I completely tuned out the tour
guide and instead focused on the sounds filling the air of the village next to
us. They were overwhelming and
awe-inspiring. And I know that I
am not the only one who stopped listening to the tour guide. As for the students who continued to
listen to the tour guide, it must have been difficult for them to hear and pay
attention. No one benefitted from
the tour guide’s actions—the students who wanted to listen to the call to
prayer and maybe do some thinking on their own could not focus because of the
tour guide’s talking, and the students who wanted to hear what the tour guide
had to say could not focus because of the call to prayer. It resulted in wasted breath on the
tour guide’s behalf and loss of information on the students’ behalf.
And I am disappointed.
I would have thought that a tour guide, who is intimately familiar with
the land and its significance, would have at least acknowledged the amazing
religious ritual we had all unintentionally become a part of. We were standing in the alleged ancient
city of Jerusalem, and witnessing an ancient religious practice that had
continued through to today—linking the old and the new with the rope of
religion. I always talk about the
oneness of human kind—how we are all connected, searching for the same things. I was upset that our tour guide could
not have been bothered to take a few minutes to catch his breath and
acknowledge the intimate way we are all linked, while standing on such holy
land. I think it’s important for
acceptance and education not to waste opportunities like that.
Oh—our tour guide did say one thing about the call to prayer:
“I guess it’s time for Mincha (the
Jewish afternoon prayer service)”.
We never did daven Mincha.